Ok, It is now the start of my second week
living and working in Urubamba, Peru. My brain is a little tired from using
Spanish, even though I am able to use English at home. Every day, all around me
is Spanish. This is good, this is great. I can feel myself learning every day.
But it is an exercise in patience. I want to learn faster, to see myself
improve faster. I want to be fluent now. But with patience, and hard work, I
will gain close to fluency. I hope.
Many of the people here, even the
tourists, they speak Spanish. Though at least two of my fellow teachers are at
a low Spanish level, much like I am. That helps, because I am human and I do
compare myself to others. When I am only around fluent Spanish speakers I feel
that I have so far to go. But really, I am able to communicate… most of the
time. There is nothing more frustrating than wanting to express an idea and not
having the words to do it. Imagine human life before the development of
language. There is a chicken and the egg debate for you.
My ability to speak Spanish also impacts
my teaching. Right now I teach 3 classes, and will be adding a private this
week. My first class is hotel English. This is fairly simple because the
employees at the 5 star hotel that I am working with already have a high level
of English, so what we work on together is more like troubleshooting. For
example we explore how best to give a sales pitch for their membership program,
and how to reply to guest complaints. Things like that.
Next I teach a class por los niños que
tiene 5-7 años. So far my attendance has been spotty so I have only had one kid
at a time. This makes it quite enjoyable because normally I'm not so fond of
working with little kids. I prefer preteens and teenagers. I'm strange. I know.
Anyway, the kids and I have mostly been working on numbers and colors and
shapes. We do a lot of coloring, and then I read one of the Dr. Seuss books
that I brought with me from my parent's house in the States. I mostly use Spanish
to communicate to the kids, but I am trying to include more and more English as
the weeks go on.
Then there is my adult class, Basic 2.
This is by far the most challenging and the most rewarding. I really need to
use Spanish to make sure they understand what I am asking them to do, but in
reality I try to use only English in the classroom. This makes it very
challenging for them, I can see this, but in the end it will earn the best
results.
The style of teaching is completely
different from what I learned in Korea. The atmosphere in my classroom and my
style of classroom management is the same, but the material is different. So,
what I love about teaching, that stays, and what I disliked, has changed. Now I
am teaching more grammar. Yesterday we worked on Can/Can't. The students really
enjoyed learning that unlike in Spanish (yo puedo, tu puedes, él puede, nos
podemos, ellos pueden) in English it is actually simpler, I can, you can, she
can… etc. Always can! Then by contrast we went over Do/Does. He does. Megan
does. Everyone else do hehe.
Anyway I really enjoy it. I love seeing
the moment in the student's face when something clicks and they hurriedly
scribble down a note to themselves. Also, now in the second week the students
are getting to be more comfortable with me and as a result are asking more
questions. My absolute favorite part of teaching is when students get engaged
enough to start asking tough questions.
What else can I tell you about my life in
Urubamba? There is so much to tell!
Overall, I feel happier and healthier and
more centered here than I have since.. well… childhood really. I know that
sounds extreme but I've been thinking about it and it's true. For the first
time since I hit 13 years old and noticed I was a female human and not some
fairy creature from Narnia, I am happy with my body and not critically
examining every inch of myself. I eat what I want, and eat healthy. Am I losing
or gaining weight? I don't know and I don't care. It is liberating.
My meditation and yoga practice has
become effortless. I wake up with the sun most mornings between 5-6:30. I know
that is a big window but there it is. I practice meditation for 20 minutes and
then go through an asana practice. A few mornings I have felt no desire for
asanas and I did not punish myself for this. For example this morning I have
woken up with a touch of a parasite and I know that my body needs rest. I also
knew I wanted to focus on writing, and so instead of meditation and asana, I am
writing this. And it feels right. I feel no guilt.
Hippies will say that the Sacred Valley
of the Inca (where Urubamba is located) is one of the energy centers of the
earth. A chakra, if you will. If you don't believe in that sort of thing then
maybe you wouldn't feel it. Or maybe you would. I feel so in tune with myself,
and as a result, so in tune with everyone around me. I try to remain skeptical
about things that cannot be observed but there is something about this place…
And I'm not the only one that feels it. I
have accidentally stumbled into a hippie enclave, and I love it. All of the
expats here are of the earthy-crunchy-burning man variety. Last weekend I went
to a little festival during the day where people were exhibiting their own
projects, I bought a handmade crystal wrap, some Maras salt mixed with Andean
herbs, and cerveza artesano. The best part? There actually is a mixture of
locals and expats in this crowd! So it doesn't feel completely like
neocolonialism (just a little bit…) And everyone speaks Spanish. Or at least tries
to. So different from Korea…
How about some of my adventures since
getting to Urubamba:
First off, I am living with Elise, the
young woman who founded El Arte Sano, the NGO that I work for. She lives in a
really charming house in the countryside outside of town. The house is four
rooms and a kitchen, and all of them open onto a courtyard that would be more
accurately described as a whimsically overgrown garden. There is a vine with
habañeros, or some kind of spicy pepper, strawberries growing out from under
the stones beneath your feet, mint everywhere, and even an apple tree. It is
quite wonderful and I am truly grateful to be staying in her spare room. Though
at the same time I am excited to get my own place and begin the nesting
process.
The first weekend here I was invited to
go on a hike with Elise and three other teachers from the school: Jessica and
Shane, both from the US, and Henri, a Spanish teacher from Cajamarca. Also on
the hike was Ho, a guy from Urubamba who runs mountain bike tours, and a woman
from Lima whom Elise had met at a workshop in Cusco the day before.
Anyway, we took a combi van 20 minutes
away from Uru, towards Ollyantay and stopped next to the Cervezeria. We began walking
on some paths that ran along corn and potato fields. Before beginning the meat
of our hike, Ho stopped, took out 3 coca leaves and offered them to Mamapacha,
or the Incan mother earth, as a prayer for a good day.
Sidenote: coca leaves, from which cocaine
is derived, are common as dirt here. You can literally buy them from every
stall in the market. It isn't taboo in the least.
Ok back to the hike. Our first stop was
an Inca ruin in the mountainside. At first glance it was just traditional
terracing, with none of the monumental stone architecture that the Inca are so
famous for. But we climbed to the top of the terraces and there found a cave.
This cave was undoubtedly a sacred space. A large alter had been carved into
the rock facing the valley while a false door was carved into the side of the
cave, facing into the mountain. I felt as if I were standing in an ethereal
portal at the top of the world. The serenity of the space compelled all of us
to have a meditative moment of silence. It was a beautiful welcome to the
Sacred Valley.
From there we headed up, and up, and up,
and up into the mountains towards a waterfall. Ho, our guide for the day, kept
insisting that we were almost there, for nearly 2 hours. That said, I really
did enjoy it. The hike took us along more farm fields, through a few indigenous
mountain villages, and then up into the craggy mountains. I love the mountains
so much, and the Andes are truly spectacular. They compare favorably even with
the Himalayas. And the variety of the ecosystems is something to behold. Over
the course of 4 hours walking we crossed a river and farm fields, through arid
near desert low bush covered mountains, and up into a densely forested deep
green chasm between two huge craggy peaks. Increíble.
At long last we made it to the waterfall,
a 30 meter tall crescendo. Sorry America, I do metric now.
Speaking of which, Urubamba exists at an
elevation just below 3,000 m (above 9,000 feet). I've been here a week and a
half now and I feel as if I have adjusted to life at this elevation. Unless I
try to do difficult aerobic exercise. Like walking up hills.
Okay one more adventure. THIS Saturday
that just passed was Urubamba day, or Urubamba's 175 anniversary. The party in
the central square went on all night. There was a huge stage set up with
Peruvian bands playing and I danced and danced and danced. One old man taught
me some traditional peruvian dance and he twirled me around on the dance floor
for ages. The cerveza was flowing generously and dare I say… dangerously?
The Peruvian style of drinking should be
approached con cuidado. Someone buys one grande cerveza and one cup. Both are
passed around and everyone in the circle fills the cup and drinks before
passing it on. So you think you are only drinking a little. Well lots of a
little is a lot. So let's just say it was a good night, and leave it at that,
hmm?
And then I discovered that my wallet
(with my debit card) and phone (which was also my camera) had fallen out of a
massive tear in the side of my $1 purse I had bought in Thailand last year.
Oh well, I still have another way to
access money and my person is fine so all is good. These are just material
things.
Overall I am happy and healthy and
looking at an option for an apartment in a few hours!
If you love mountains, architecture,
archaeology, the intersection of ancient and modern cultures, spiritualism,
South American Andean culture, or well.. if you love exploring, I can't
encourage you enough to make Peru a priority. I know I am in the honeymoon
phase but seriously, WHAT a honeymoon. I am so in love with this place.
Okay. Until next time,
Ciao!
He my little friend! Haha, that's so good to read your story's! It's like i'm there with you,enjoy some of your hapiness... And nice to read that you're good with yourself! I'm happy you can eat normal now, and don't obsess about gaining or losing weight! Good on ya, i'm proud at you!
ReplyDeletePeru sounds lovely... Hows wildlife? Anything interesting?
I'll sent you soon a message on fb, in the mean time; keep posting your story's! I enjoy it ;) Kiss and big hug, Joske